What is a Protein Skimmer?

A protein skimmer, also sometimes referred to as a foam fractionator, is a piece of aquarium equipment that is primarily used in saltwater aquariums in order to remove dissolved organic compounds (DOC) and other harmful substances that if not removed can breakdown in the aquarium or filter adding to the biological load on an aquarium. Protein skimmers remove these hydrophilic substances completely from the water using air bubbles that are collected in a collection cup. As air and water are mixed in the skimmer chamber the bubbles rise and take with them the dissolved organics that are attracted to the bubble surface. When the bubbles with the proteins, amino acids and other nasty stuff bubble up the tube into the collection cup they are completely removed from the aquarium. Unlike a mechanical filter that just traps solids but still exposes them to the aquarium as the water continues to flow over them all the while these solids are breaking down and adding to the total bio-load on a tank. Skimmers could possibly be consider one of the most significant advances for the saltwater hobbyist.Think about the ocean for a minute. You know how as the waves crash on shore you will sometimes notice sea foam? This is similar to the way protein skimmers function. Air is mixed with water and then the dirty bubbles (foam) are placed on shore, only with a protein skimmer this foam is removed from the system via the collection cup.

Skimmer Benefits

• Skimmers increase the dissolve oxygen levels and redox potential in an aquarium
• They remove dissolved organics before they get a chance to breakdown and become a food source for nuisance algae
• By removing dissolved organics the aquarium water clarity does not age or yellow as quickly since the DOC buildup is less allowing light to penetrate deeper into the tank for the benefit of corals and other inverts.
• Can help lead to a more stable pH since less dissolved organics are in the system.
• Overall improvement in the health and vigor of the animals in the aquarium since their wastes are being removed from the system via the collection cup.

Although it is my opinion that a protein skimmer's positives far outweigh the negatives I still have to mention that there are some drawbacks to using a skimmer.Skimmer Drawbacks

• Can be very to extremely expensive
• They can remove beneficial bacteria as well as phytoplankton and other desirable organisms from a system.
• They can remove trace elements that may need to be replenished or supplemented, such as Iodine. Other elements are most likely removed as well and if partial water changes are not practiced on a regular basis your system could become unbalanced chemically, i.e. not have the proper proportion or ratio of trace elements to major elements. Regular partial water changes with properly mixed saltwater will prevent this from happening.

Do I really need to a protein skimmer?

One of the first questions new saltwater hobbyists seem to ask is whether they really need a protein skimmer for their first setup. Especially when they start to shop for a skimmer. The short answer is NO, you don't have to run a protein skimmer on your setup. There are many hobbyists that run successful systems without them. However, these hobbyists also realize the importance of regular partial water changes for the aquarium and how important water changes are to the health and well being of the animals in their care.By not running a skimmer you really do need to stay on top of those water changes. Otherwise you will start to see nuisance algae growths cropping up all over the place, especially if you have high output lighting like metal halides, T5's or VHO flourescents. The inital expense of getting a good protein skimmer is justified in the peace of mind it gives the hobbyist and the overall water quality improvement it can provide. I'm telling ya, once you see and smell your first collection cup full of gunk that is removed from your aquarium you will be hooked on skimmers. The way most systems are stocked nowadays (rarely are they understocked) skimmers should be pulling out at least a cup full of skimmate from the system daily. Do you really want that amount of dissolved organics accumulating in your tank in between water changes? Me neither.
Running a system without a skimmer and without live rock would seem to be someone that is just trying to A) set themselves up for failure or B) they like bashing their heads against walls. If you're planning on a system without live rock and no protein skimmer I would simply ask, why? Make the system as easy to maintain as possible and chances are you will be able to enjoy it more.

Skimmer Types

Really? You want to cover this? Ok, if you say so. If your mind starts to glaze over mid-read, you've been warned. Basically, the object here is to find the best way to create lots of tiny bubbles and to provide the optimal contact time with the organics so they can attach to the bubbles and then rise as a foam into the collection cup. The body style of the skimmer can be an important design consideration when utilizing any of the methods of creating bubbles. Here are a few ways to make bubbles:Co-current skimmers: These were some of the first used and they had an airstone at the bottom of the chamber providing the air bubbles. The air bubbles rose vertically and were collected into a cup. Actually, these skimmers even today are good skimmers. The wooden air stones (finer bubbles) just have to be replaced regularly.
Counter Current skimmers: The air/water mixture is forced through a counter-current of aquarium water in the body of the skimmer. This is supposed to give a longer contact time for the bubbles to attract the organics.
Venturi skimmers: These use a venturi valve to mix in air with the water. These valves are usually situated on the intake tube coming into the skimmer.
Needle Wheel Skimmers: These use a spoked wheel that spins and chops up the incoming water producing fine bubbles. There are also mesh wheel skimmers that function in a similar way.
Spray Induction: As the aquarium water comes into the skimmer it is forced through a spray nozzle that creates a lot of tiny bubbles.
Downdraft and Beckett: These skimmer types use proprietary parts to mix the air and water to create the glorious bubbles we love. Some of the larger protein skimmers are these types of skimmers.
Knowing how a skimmer creates it's bubbles could be a consideration for the hobbyist. Some are more popular than others. It really comes down to doing your research, just like everything else in this hobby. Are you going to pick a skimmer just because it's a downdraft skimmer? Of course not. You are going to come to a decision based on reviews from other hobbyists or first hand experience with a unit.

Skimmer Maintenance

When shopping for a protein skimmer it is very important to include in your decision making the methods and ease of maintenance on the product before buying one.-How easy is it to empty and clean the collection cup? This is a daily task and collection cup design is a very important factor.
-How easy is it to get into the skimmer with your arm for scrubbing the walls? You won't be cleaning the walls except maybe every 6 months to annually.
-How easy is it to clean the bubble creation device? Can you easily get to it with a small bottle brush?
Cleaning the collection cup should be done daily for optimum performance. As residue builds up on the neck of the cup it can impede the rising of the foam and ultimately the amount of gunk that you remove from the system.

To Skim Wet or Dry?

Another thing to consider is whether you want to skim wet or skim dry? Skimming wet is simply lowering the collection cup and/or increasing the air flow so that it removes more skimmate albeit less dense and lighter colored organics from the system. Skimming dry is raising the collection cup and removing only the nastiest stuff from the system. Skimming wet means more freshwater water top-offs, more salinity checks with the refractometer and possibly testing more often for depleted iodine levels. Skimmer dry means less water top-offs but possibly more dissolved organics left in the system.There are even those hobbyists out there that utilize wet skimming as a part of their water change schedule. Skimming wet lets them remove the most dissolved organics and as they are monitoring their salinity levels they may notice that it will start to drop as they skim wet. When doing water top-offs you will want to make up for the lost salinity by using pre-mixed and aged saltwater to make up for what was lost via the wet skimming. A bonus to skimming wet is that the neck doesn't accumulate as much protein gunk around the inside of the neck on the collection cup, so a little bit less maintenace on a day to day basis.
The decision is totally up to the aquarist. Only you know how well your skimmer works on your particular system and you know your own maintenance habits. Some find a good middle ground between wet and dry skimming. There is no right answer here that covers all situations.

Parting Thoughts...

Skimmers can be a valuable asset for your saltwater aquarium. They can help create a more stable environment for your animals and a healthier one too. If you just can't afford a decent protein skimmer you should honestly rethink the whole saltwater thing, at least for now. Especially for a beginner to the hobby our goal here is to make sure you have all the tools you need to succeed while having fun. Save up enough money until you can afford one a later date. You will be glad you did.One last thing, skimmers are very expensive and the old saying that "you get what you pay for" certainly has some merit with skimmers. Trying to go the inexpensive route will often end up costing you more in the long run. I've been there and done that. Don't waste your money on a cheap skimmer. This piece of aquarium equipment is just too important. Get a good one from the start after researching them thoroughly.

Thanks for reading.

TROPICAL FISH QUIZ

How to Set-Up Your New Aquarium

Getting Going with Your New Aquarium

For the simplest setup, I would recommend that you purchase a fifteen, twenty, or twenty-nine gallon glass tank with an air driven under gravel filter, plastic top with a fluorescent light, one pound-per-gallon of aquarium gravel, an air pump and a hanging heater. To save a little money in initial setup, you can get an incandescent light rather than the fluorescent. If, on the other hand, you have some extra money, get a power head rather than the air pump and replace the hanging heater with a submersible model. For beginners I recommend a selection of plastic plants and plastic, resin, wood, ceramic or stone decorations available from most pet shops. Most pet stores will have setups similar to this at a discounted price (decorations not included). You will also need a stand which can support the weight of a tank (about 10 pounds per gallon of tank capacity). Larger tanks are much less work than smaller tanks or bowls, can hold many more fish, provide more stable water conditions and will generally lead to a much more pleasant experience with the fish keeping hobby. Small tanks and bowls will require a great deal of maintenance and more expert care to keep the tank stable and your fish healthy and happy.

Setting up your aquarium is easy, now that you have your equipment. Take the stand and put it someplace in your home where you will be able to enjoy your fish, and where you will be able to take care of them. You will also want to put it someplace where it will look nice for quite some time, since it is quite a bit of work to move the tank, and you should place the aquarium where it will not get direct sunlight (this will help control algae).
Place the tank on the stand, and make sure that there is solid contact between the tank and the stand. Warped surfaces can break the glass bottom of most fish tanks.
Check to see what kind of filter you have, if you have an Under Gravel Filter (UGF), you will need to place that next. The UGF goes on the bottom of the tank. Place the lift tubes in their sockets. For most smaller tanks one lift tube will be plenty if you are using a power head to run the filter. If you are using an air pump to run the filter, you will probably need two. Check the setup instructions on the filter container to see if you need to do anything else when setting up your filter; for example, plugging unused lift tube ports or attaching bubble walls. You want to leave the tops off of the lift tubes for now.
Thoroughly rinse the gravel and put it in the tank. Spread the gravel out so that you have a relatively even layer. You want the lowest point in the gravel to be near the front of the tank, so detritus will collect there, where you can see it to clean it out. Make sure that the gravel does not have many dips in it as it slopes to the back of the tank, to simplify your cleaning job.
If you have a filter other than a UGF which goes inside the tank, set it up and place it in the tank now. Thoroughly rinse everything with cool running tap water before you put it in the tank.
Now you can add the heater and water pumps (if necessary). If you have a hanging heater, hang it off the back, someplace where you can still see it. You want to be able to see it so you can tell when it is on. If you have a submersible heater, place it near the bottom of the tank (heat rises), and approximately horizontal. Find a location for your air pump. It should be placed above the water level, because water can drain back out through the air tube if the power goes off, damaging the pump, and maybe damaging other things. If you cannot place the air pump above the water line, you should probably check into getting some check-valves for the air line. You will probably also need a gang valve for the air line, which will let you run two lift tubes off of a single outlet air pump. Run a piece of air line from the air pump to the gang valve. Run another piece of air line from the gang valve to each of your lift tubes. Check the instructions for your filter to see exactly how to attach the air line to the air stones (this varies from model to model...). If you are not using a UGF, check to see if your filter needs an air pump attached, and how to attach one. If you are running your filter with a power head, rather than an air pump, place the power head on top of the lift tube following the instructions on the package. Make SURE that your pumps and heaters are all UNplugged.You can break your heater or air stones by having them running when you add water, and your power heads can easily overheat without water to cool them. At this point, your lift tubes should be closed off so that fish cannot get into them.
Now you should place your decorations in the tank and see what they will look like (more or less) without getting your hands wet and making a lot of mess. Remember that many ceramic or plastic decorations will trap air and either float or tip over as you put water in the tank. (Just a warning, so you won't be surprised when it happens.)
Once your decorations are in place, you will want to put the top on the tank. If you bought a kit from a pet shop, you should either have a glass top with a light strip, or an integrated plastic top. However it is made, the back section should be made of light weight plastic which you can cut to accommodate power cords, heaters, filters, and air lines. With a pair of scissors or a utility knife, carefully cut out notches as necessary for your setup.
At this point, you should be ready to add water. You can just pour water into the tank without treating it at this time, since you have no fish, plants, or biological filter to worry about. Just add treatment after you have the tank full. If you are just pouring the water in, you probably want to pour it over a rock or some other ornament to keep from digging a hole in the gravel. If you don't have an appropriate ornament, get a bowl or plate from your kitchen and use that. Once the tank is full, let it sit for an hour or so, to saturate your air stones and to equalize the heater temperature, then turn everything on. Wait a day or two before getting any fish, this way you can stabilize the temperature, make sure that nothing leaks, and insure that all of your equipment is working properly.

Once you have your aquarium equipment all set up, and you are sure that the equipment is operating correctly, and that the temperature is stable and set correctly, you are ready to introduce your first fish and begin the cycling process.

So, You Want to Set Up a Fish Tank?

                                    

Some Things To Think About And Have In Mind Before You Buy Your Tank

Here are some step-by-step tips for getting started in the fastest growing hobby in the world, fish keeping. These 11 steps can help you to avoid many common mistakes and get you into a fish tank that you can live with and be proud of.

1. Determine what kind of fish you want to keep.
   The first thing you should do when you decide to keep fish is determine what kind of fish you want to keep. Different kinds of fish will require different care, different conditions, different space, and different equipment. If you get your equipment before you decide what kind of fish you are getting, you may find yourself with inappropriate or unusable equipment or insufficient space.
2. Research care and compatibility of those fish.
   This should involve your first purchase in the aquarium hobby - a book. It is very important to learn about the fish you want to keep. This will let you know what conditions they will need, what equipment you will want, and how to set up your tank. When you research your fish, you can determine how big they will get and thereby determine the size of the tank you will need to keep them happy and healthy (1" of healthy mature fish per gallon of water for small fish, 1" of fish per 3 gallons of water for large or messy fish, more than that for marine fish). Also, this will give you a chance to learn if the various fish you have selected are compatible with each other. If different fish's care requirements, size, or temperament are too different, they will not be compatible and should not be kept together.
3. Determine space.
   Now that you know a little more about the fish you wish to keep, you know how large of a tank you will need. Look through your home and select a location for your new aquarium. How much space can you allocate to the tank and accessories? Remember to account for space between the tank and the wall for filters, tubing, and/or cords.
4. Determine budget.
   How much can you afford to spend on your aquarium? If this is your first tank, how much can you afford to spend on a new hobby that you are not sure you will be pursuing long term?
5. Select equipment.
   Visit your local pet store and determine what equipment is available and how much it will cost. If you do not see something that you will need for your system, ask about placing a special order. See if you can get a price (or at least an approximation) before committing to an order.
6. Evaluate budget/space constraints.
   How does your budget compare to the cost of the equipment you will need? Can you get a tank large enough for your fish that will fit in the space available in your home? You should address both of these questions, and then evaluate your fish selection, your space constraints and your budget compared to the new information you now have. Can you spend more? Is it a little more or a lot more? How close are you to fitting the appropriate tank into the space available in your home? Is another location available in your home? How committed are you to getting the fish you selected? Is one fish pushing your set-up into a different price bracket? Is that fish even available in your area?
7. Purchase equipment.
   Once you have reevaluated your fish selections, space limitations, and budget, it is time to purchase equipment. If you need to special order anything, do so early, as it may take a considerable time to get equipment by special order.
8. Setup equipment.
   Now that everything is home, clean it all off and get ready to go. Expect to spend a couple of hours setting everything up if this is your first tank. Fill your tank with water once all of your equipment is set up, and let it settle for a couple of days so you can make sure that everything is working properly and that nothing leaks.
9. Select starting fish.
   During the first couple of days, while the tank is running without fish, you can go back to your list of fish and select a few starter fish. These fish should be hearty, inexpensive, relatively small, and something you want to keep in your tank in the long run. You only want to select 1" of fish per 10 gallons of water, but this time (and only this time) you can use the size the fish are when you get them to determine their impact. This is because your fish will not grow significantly in the 4-8 weeks it will take the tank to cycle.
10. Cycle your tank.
    Over the next 4-8 weeks, you must be patient. Be very diligent with tank maintenance, be absolutely sure not to over feed, watch your fish's behavior closely, do extra water changes as necessary, and DON'T ADD ANY MORE FISH. Until your tank has finished cycling, you should only stick with your few select starter fish.
11. Maintain your tank.
    Feed and observe your fish daily. Check your filters at least twice a week. Perform a 10-15% water change every week, and scrub for algae at the same time. Every month, check all hoses, fittings, clamps, cords,lights and other miscellaneous equipment. This may sound like a lot, but a couple of minutes a day could tell you months in advance of a disaster. Water changes usually take under 30 minutes for a tank, including checking all equipment and scrubbing for algae! Most people find their aquariums to take under 2 minutes a day to keep everything in good order.

Now you are ready to venture into the exciting world of fish keeping. Whether you just want to keep goldfishhttp://www.google.com/, or if you want to delve into the world of exotic tropical reefs, these 11 steps will get you started on the right foot.
http://www.absolute-aquatics.com

Breeding Discus Video

One of the best videos I've come across on Discus breeding. Very informative.

DISCUS FISH TANK

Discus fish are one of the most popular fish in the world to keep. It is because of their beauty and elegance why so many people fall in love with these fish. I thought I would share this video and you can make up your own minds. Enjoy.

BOGWOOD

 

What is Bogwood?

Bogwood is wood preserved in a bog due to anaerobic conditions. Usually bogwood is stained brown by organic matter (tannins) present in the bog.

• True bogwood is very rarely offered in aquarium shops as it is very expensive. The wood offered are usually pieces of wood that have been dried out in the sun and so may float when first placed in a tank.

The wood becomes waterlogged after many weeks and so will sink in the aquarium. Large pieces with interesting shapes are quite collectible and are often added to aquariums to give them character.

What Bogwood does to the water

The wood will leach out tannins which slowly turn the water brown (this reduces with age). This is harmless and indeed often thought of as beneficial to the animals as it is a mild antibacterial, fungicide agent and the wood provides trace minerals and nutrients for all your animals and plants. These tannins will alter the pH of the water making it more acidic and will soften the water in a similar way that peat does. This can be counter balanced by adding Calcium carbonate like crushed seashells or coral sand. Ensure your tank water has a decent level of KH and this pH effect will be minimal.

• When adding fresh wood to the tank often a light white coating appears on the wood for a couple of months. This is a harmless fungus and should disappear. Algae eating fish often eat it.

• Adding activated carbon to your filter will remove tannins, and regular water changes will help keep them to comfortable level.

Benefits of Bogwood

• Provides live food in the form of infusoria for fry, small fish and invertebrates.

• Provides essential trace minerals for all life in the tank (including plants).^]

• Provides essential fibre in their diet for catfish like bristlenose or Otocinclus fish.

• Adding bogwood significantly reduces fungus and bacterial disease in your aquatic animals. .

• Provides hiding places for your animals, so they feel less stressed, and therefore will be healthier.

• It looks nice.

Preparing the wood

Do not simply dunk the wood into your tank. Your piece of wood has probably been sitting on a shelf in the shop for a long time. It may have collected chemical sprays from the air and often will be coated with dust.

Take the wood and rinse it under normal tap water and leave it in a bucket of tap water for several days. If the water turns very dark brown then the wood probably hasn't been pretreated and you'll need to replace the water and re-examine the water every 2 days until it shows signs of lessening. This can take months in a untreated piece.

If it is pretreated it should sink rapidly within a day and will not leak out high levels of tannins. Once you're happy with the way the wood is looking, add to your aquarium.

• Boiling wood in water for 6-12 hours is a quick alternative to letting it sit soaking in water for weeks. But this is a very smelly and dirty process for most home aquarists. It also destroys any beneficial fungus or bacteria there may have been on it - along with any harmful ones.

A selection of bogwood can be found at  http://www.absolute-aquatics.com